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February 15, 2007


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The Hawaiian wave measuring system is really only macho posturing. The "we measure the backs of the wave" line is merely a weak rationalization for a stupid tradition. First of all, nobody rides the back of the wave, second how does one measure the back? and third the measurements are consistent, logical or conformed. So, not to look like wusses in front of the Hawaiians, continental surfers started measuring waves in terms of their bodies, chest, shoulder, head high, overhead, double overhead. This is just a way to get around the original nonsense without looking weak. (Windsurfing becomes head, logo, mast high.) You will notice when the waves become Jaws-size huge nobody has a problem measuring them by actually how many feet the face of the wave is. I guess when you are riding 30-40 waves there is no need for macho posturing.

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windsurfing van

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    "It's good to have a shredmobile" my friend Caldwell said, so I made one. It's a Ford E150 cargo van done up with lumber and k-mart plastic boxes.