On a trip to Maui several years ago I came upon the phenomena of local surfers and windsurfers drastically understating the size of waves. I'd look out at walls of water six to eight feet high, and later hear locals referring to the waves as having been three to four feet. At first I thought this was a function of Maui being laid back to the verge of insanity, but later I heard that wave height was judged from BEHIND the wave (how this worked watching the waves from shore I had no idea.)
Bill at Pono House explains how when the Hawaiin surf report says three feet you should be prepared for overhead. I also found this article looking at the clash between Hawaiin surf forecasts and the National Weather Service forecast.
Good to know. For myself I like to relate them to myself on the board (ie chest-high) or rig (logo high.) I prefer to leave mast-high waves to video.
P.S. After three weeks in Maui I realized that I'd been the insanity was mine. Lunch at the Fish Market, anyone?
The Hawaiian wave measuring system is really only macho posturing. The "we measure the backs of the wave" line is merely a weak rationalization for a stupid tradition. First of all, nobody rides the back of the wave, second how does one measure the back? and third the measurements are consistent, logical or conformed. So, not to look like wusses in front of the Hawaiians, continental surfers started measuring waves in terms of their bodies, chest, shoulder, head high, overhead, double overhead. This is just a way to get around the original nonsense without looking weak. (Windsurfing becomes head, logo, mast high.) You will notice when the waves become Jaws-size huge nobody has a problem measuring them by actually how many feet the face of the wave is. I guess when you are riding 30-40 waves there is no need for macho posturing.
Posted by: dwo | December 16, 2007 at 06:31 PM