What do you do when the ocean is so gnarly that you can’t
get out?
If it’s windy we
sail the inner bays.
If it’s not
windy, we SUP surf the waves that come through an inlet.
I had never done this before, but
Jon and the Wolf said it would be fun, so I pulled up on the east side of
Shinnecock Inlet.
The guys
were already out and riding the, um, waves.
They were hooting and carving turns (on what I could not
see) so I put on a wetsuit and paddled out.
When I got to the lineup I found the guys carefully
jockeying for position to catch waves that were maybe a foot high. This is what I came out for? But hey I was already wet so I tried to
catch a wave. And
failed. And tried again and
again and again. Fail, fail,
fail. Jon and John gave me
some tips, which got me onto a wave that I promptly fell off of a few seconds
later, finding myself in thigh-deep water.
Standing in the shallows watching the dogged
pursuit of foot-high waves, I thought “these are surfing conditions for
rabbits. This is a scene
they cut from Watership Down:
Pipkin: “I hop
on the board and do what?
Blackberry:
“Wait for a wave to come, then paddle with your paws. Then you surf!”
Pipkin: “I
don’t think rabbits are supposed to surf.
I’m frightened.”
Fiver: “I think
it will be okay, Pipkin.
El-Ahrairah would have surfed if he needed to.”
Bigwig: “Get on the damn board and surf!”
Those rabbits had pluck, if somewhat limited intellects. But I’m not a rabbit, I’m a
Puffin being humiliated by ankle high waves! So I tried a few more times, positioned myself
like Jon suggested, and finally caught one. The ride was in fact entertaining. So I go and catch another. I’m starting to get the hang of
it…like miniture golf I have to scale down my movements while staying
precise.
The microwave gods saw that I was becoming comfortable, and
so arranged for a new humiliation:
There it was, a thigh-high bomber approaching to wipe me out. In my ignorance I was excited…a
legitimate small wave…so I let it come to me, paddled up to speed…and
pearled! I was OVERWHELMED
by the beast! It was all
about proportion, like in Moneyball where Michael Lewis hails pitcher
Jamie Moyers’ 60 mph curveball, which lulls batters so much that he can then blow them
away with an 80 mph fastball.
It sounds ridiculous, but that’s what happens.
And that’s what was happening to me. Humbled by the smallest waves I’d
ever tried to surf, I learned the value of being in exactly the right
spot. I hope some of this
translates into my next session, on waters where rabbits fear to tread (I mean
surf.)
*****
1.
Apologies to Richard Adams (author of Watership Down), and Michael Lewis
(whose work I did not mangle; still, he was probably hoping that his name would
never be mentioned in these unhallowed URLS.)
2. It
should be mentioned that Jon Ford had surfed in magnificent head-high waves
(for humans) at Cryder the day before. He’s the antithesis of a wave snob.
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