Redemption In The Waves (in three parts)

When last I reported from the SUP surfing front (my front, anyways) I could be heard whining mightily about what a bad time I was having, the amount of skin missing from my body, and various bits of property and self respect lost to the ocean. Then came last Friday.

Early morning Jon Ford said "meet me at the Cut for an early sesh". Out we paddled at 8AM, heading east into light breeze and minor about a quarter mile until we came to a very nice break. Five to Six foot waves were plentiful and tightly spaced, and twice we had sets of eight footers come through. The first set of 8's landed on our heads (we laughed) but the second set we rode.   I watched Jon do the steepest drop I've seen in my young wave career...the tail of his board was visible above his shoulder, and his face was that of someone who'd just jumped out of a window.  Two waves later I caught the best Left of my life and the best wave of my summer.   I was made whole.

After 90 good minutes of waves it was time to go, and I was so happy with the sesh that I didn't particularly mind getting creamed exiting the water (I timed my exit between beach breakers perfectly...almost.)

Then late in the afternoon I got the call to head to Road L.  Two sessions in one day?!  Yeah!   So I met the Wolf and Peconic Jeff and Jon (again) and George Pav and CD (who was switching back and forth between SUP and longboard with his son) and others on the water for some extremely clean four footers (with the occasional head-high set to catch your attention).   It was a playground.

After 90 good minutes of waves it was time to go.   Standing on the beach talking with Jeff for ten minutes, the ache in my arms started to subside, and then he said "you can't go now...there are still waves."  

So back I went.  Wave playground, yessirree.   After 90 good minutes of waves I was feeling beyond good.  I was back!

(Photos by Jeff.  Top:  The editor, happy again on a clean friendly bit o' Road L's playful swell.   Bottom:  There was the occasional head-high set.)

 

Comments

[ralph]

So true Puff. You know that aching you feel deep in your chest when you are missing good wind? I now feel that when missing good surf too.