"Jeff has cojones" said Christian.
I agreed. I wasn't surprised he launched (SUP at Tiana in head-high break) 'cause Peconic Jeff is always ready to try something crazy. But when it comes to SUP crazy, I'm usually the one who wants to go out (because I don't know any better) and then people like Jon Ford and Scott come over and say "you don't want to do that." Today was the first time I've ever looked at the surf and said "it would be bad to launch now". First time ever. It looked like Destructo Beach to me.
But out Jeff went, and while Christian, Jake and I watched, he caught several 8 footers, left and right, bailing only when a big closeout prepared to gobble his Peconicness. We saw him get rolled a few times, ingested by whitewater a few times, but always come up energized and ready for more.
After the beach break calmed down a bit and Jeff came in for some water, I went out with him to take a shot at the big sets coming in on the outside. I caught nothing except a beautiful sunset. Jeff caught a few more waves. It was Jeff Day at Tiana!
(Jeff thinks about getting rolled in overhead waves. Photo by Christian.)
Woohoo, what a rush! Let's go again today! (or catch a sunrise sesh with the low/incoming tide tomorrow)
Posted by: Jeff, aka PeconicJeff | November 13, 2010 at 09:56 AM
What's up with the helmet? I don't think I've ever seen a guy wear one surfing in my entire life.....of course I have seen photographic evidence of Jeff wearing a hat while surfing. Another first for me....but then again, I've also seen photos of you guys bleeding and going out in the ice. I think I'll just slink away and keep my mouth shut.
P.S. Did the Portuguese ever find Jeff's hat?
Posted by: Joe "Keo" Rouse | November 16, 2010 at 05:52 AM
Yeah Joe, we wear 'em when the waves are big and the water cold. The SUP boards are bee eye gee BIG, and getting hit by them anywhere while being rolled can be muy painful. If you cruise the SUP posts in the Puffin you'll find other photos of us with the brain buckets, btw.
Posted by: Michael | November 16, 2010 at 07:46 AM